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The only legal means of entering Tibet is by air. It is not, however, the only way. Occasionally young Americans or Europeans hitchhike rides on the road that leads from Golmud in Qinghai province over the Himalayas to Lhasa.
The only place the railway didn't go was Tibet. The Chinese had abandoned this Tibet line at Golmud in Qinghai, faced by the impenetrable Kunlun Mountains.
We arrived in Golmud, formerly Tibetan, now a Chinese town, a small oasis in a barren area, at about 7 A.M. The Golmud Hotel dorm ($5) housed only a young Japanese man who had worked as a cook's assistant in Milan. He was going home to Tokyo to open an Italian restaurant. I went over to the office of CITS, the Chinese equivalent of the old Russian Intourist, and booked the last leg of my trip, from Golmud to Lhasa by bus, for $160, including a three-day tour, a low-end hotel and the necessary Tibetan permit.
We had left the frosty campsite at Koko Nor after a hearty Sherpa breakfast of hot porridge and fried eggs, the car heater was pumping out warmth, we had slept well, and we were a few minutes into our drive to Golmud, 580 kilometres further towards Tibet.
'Social development' could obliquely mean a new Chinese invasion - a massive influx of Chinese settlers, drawn by financial incentives and tax breaks. There are precedents here: you do not have to look any further than Golmud itself. Fifty years ago, Golmud was open steppe with nomad herders. After the railway reached town, immigrants from eastern China arrived in droves, leading to the present population of several hundred thousand and a sprawling town.